Adibusana. Istilah Bahasa Prancis-nya, haute couture. Menurut KBBI, artinya busana eksklusif untuk perempuan yang dirancang oleh perancang terkemuka. Menilik apa yang dideskripsikan KBBI tersebut, sepertinya istilah ini masih belum tepat sasaran. Belum menggambarkan arti kata seutuhnya.
Haute couture jika diartikan dalam Bahasa Inggris artinya high sewing, high dressmaking. Menunjuk pada istilah yang lebih kompleks dari hanya membuat sebuah pakaian dan menjahitnya. Ada rasa yang terlibat. Ada tangan-tangan terampil yang mengerjakan semalam suntuk atau bahkan berbulan-bulan. Ada sematan-sematan aksen yang dikerjakan apik dengan tangan. Ada pola yang dibuat sedemikian rupa hingga membentuk tubuh dengan gemulai. Bahkan isitlah ini tak terbatas hanya pada pakaian, pengerjaan aksesori pun tak terlepas.
Masyarakat awam sering menyalahartikan bahwa adibusana hanya melibatkan gaun dengan material yang mewah atau pola yang besar dan berat. Padahal arti harafiahnya jauh lebih dari sekedar penerjemahan tersebut. Sebagai salah satu fashion show ikonis yang kerap menutup gelaran Jakarta Fashion Week, Dewi Fashion Knights hadir tidak hanya mempersembahkan deretan perancang mode kelas atas.
Tahun ini, Dewi Fashion Knights hadir dalam dua format berbeda. Yang pertama adalah Dewi Fashion Knights untuk lini luxury ready-to-wear dan yang kedua adalah Dewi Fashion Knights untuk lini adibusana. Pemisahan ini sekaligus untuk mengedukasi masyarakat bahwa pada prakteknya dua lini tersebut memiliki pendekatan fashion yang berbeda.
Di malam penutupan Jakarta Fashion Week 2023, Dewi Fashion Knights untuk lini adibusana yang mengambil bagian dengan mengusung tema Future Couture. Istilah ini sekaligus menginformasikan tentang penerjemahan adibusana yang seutuhnya dari tiga perancang mode Tanah Air, yakni Stella Rissa, Yogie Pratama, dan Rinaldy Yunardi.
<blockquote class="instagram-media" data-instgrm-captioned data-instgrm-permalink="https://www.instagram.com/p/CkaE6zJvnWd/?utm_source=ig_embed&utm_campaign=loading" data-instgrm-version="14" style=" background:#FFF; border:0; border-radius:3px; box-shadow:0 0 1px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.5),0 1px 10px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.15); margin: 1px; max-width:540px; min-width:326px; padding:0; width:99.375%; width:-webkit-calc(100% – 2px); width:calc(100% – 2px);"><div style="padding:16px;"> <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/CkaE6zJvnWd/?utm_source=ig_embed&utm_campaign=loading" style=" background:#FFFFFF; line-height:0; padding:0 0; text-align:center; text-decoration:none; width:100%;" target="_blank"> <div style=" display: flex; flex-direction: row; align-items: center;"> <div style="background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 50%; flex-grow: 0; height: 40px; margin-right: 14px; width: 40px;"></div> <div style="display: flex; flex-direction: column; flex-grow: 1; justify-content: center;"> <div style=" background-color: #F4F4F4; 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overflow:hidden; padding:8px 0 7px; text-align:center; text-overflow:ellipsis; white-space:nowrap;"><a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/CkaE6zJvnWd/?utm_source=ig_embed&utm_campaign=loading" style=" color:#c9c8cd; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; font-style:normal; font-weight:normal; line-height:17px; text-decoration:none;" target="_blank">A post shared by STELLARISSA (@stellarissa)</a></p></div></blockquote> <script async src="//www.instagram.com/embed.js"></script>
Menurut Stella Rissa, adibusana itu bukan hanya sekedar membuat pakaian. Ada proses kreatif yang ia nikmati di sana. Garis desainnya mengikuti setiap klien yang kemungkinan datang kepadanya dengan berbagai macam bentuk tubuh dan karakter yang berbeda. Ia menerjemahkannya ke dalam 25 gaya dengan pola khusus yang tajam, membentuk tubuh, sesekali melambai lewat teknik draping dan cutting yang mengagumkan. Ia juga mengambil inspirasi koleksi ini dari seorang perempuan, khususnya ibu. Tema In The Name of The Mother begitu terampil ia sajikan dalam balutan warna perak, merah, hitam, dan putih yang bergantian memasuki runway dengan pesonanya masing-masing yang sama kuat.
<blockquote class="instagram-media" data-instgrm-captioned data-instgrm-permalink="https://www.instagram.com/p/Cka-qWtPLYq/?utm_source=ig_embed&utm_campaign=loading" data-instgrm-version="14" style=" background:#FFF; border:0; border-radius:3px; box-shadow:0 0 1px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.5),0 1px 10px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.15); margin: 1px; max-width:540px; min-width:326px; padding:0; width:99.375%; width:-webkit-calc(100% – 2px); width:calc(100% – 2px);"><div style="padding:16px;"> <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/Cka-qWtPLYq/?utm_source=ig_embed&utm_campaign=loading" style=" background:#FFFFFF; line-height:0; padding:0 0; text-align:center; text-decoration:none; width:100%;" target="_blank"> <div style=" display: flex; flex-direction: row; align-items: center;"> <div style="background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 50%; flex-grow: 0; height: 40px; margin-right: 14px; width: 40px;"></div> <div style="display: flex; flex-direction: column; flex-grow: 1; justify-content: center;"> <div style=" background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; margin-bottom: 6px; width: 100px;"></div> <div style=" background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; width: 60px;"></div></div></div><div style="padding: 19% 0;"></div> <div style="display:block; height:50px; margin:0 auto 12px; width:50px;"><svg width="50px" height="50px" viewBox="0 0 60 60" version="1.1" xmlns="https://www.w3.org/2000/svg" xmlns:xlink="https://www.w3.org/1999/xlink"><g stroke="none" stroke-width="1" fill="none" fill-rule="evenodd"><g transform="translate(-511.000000, -20.000000)" fill="#000000"><g><path d="M556.869,30.41 C554.814,30.41 553.148,32.076 553.148,34.131 C553.148,36.186 554.814,37.852 556.869,37.852 C558.924,37.852 560.59,36.186 560.59,34.131 C560.59,32.076 558.924,30.41 556.869,30.41 M541,60.657 C535.114,60.657 530.342,55.887 530.342,50 C530.342,44.114 535.114,39.342 541,39.342 C546.887,39.342 551.658,44.114 551.658,50 C551.658,55.887 546.887,60.657 541,60.657 M541,33.886 C532.1,33.886 524.886,41.1 524.886,50 C524.886,58.899 532.1,66.113 541,66.113 C549.9,66.113 557.115,58.899 557.115,50 C557.115,41.1 549.9,33.886 541,33.886 M565.378,62.101 C565.244,65.022 564.756,66.606 564.346,67.663 C563.803,69.06 563.154,70.057 562.106,71.106 C561.058,72.155 560.06,72.803 558.662,73.347 C557.607,73.757 556.021,74.244 553.102,74.378 C549.944,74.521 548.997,74.552 541,74.552 C533.003,74.552 532.056,74.521 528.898,74.378 C525.979,74.244 524.393,73.757 523.338,73.347 C521.94,72.803 520.942,72.155 519.894,71.106 C518.846,70.057 518.197,69.06 517.654,67.663 C517.244,66.606 516.755,65.022 516.623,62.101 C516.479,58.943 516.448,57.996 516.448,50 C516.448,42.003 516.479,41.056 516.623,37.899 C516.755,34.978 517.244,33.391 517.654,32.338 C518.197,30.938 518.846,29.942 519.894,28.894 C520.942,27.846 521.94,27.196 523.338,26.654 C524.393,26.244 525.979,25.756 528.898,25.623 C532.057,25.479 533.004,25.448 541,25.448 C548.997,25.448 549.943,25.479 553.102,25.623 C556.021,25.756 557.607,26.244 558.662,26.654 C560.06,27.196 561.058,27.846 562.106,28.894 C563.154,29.942 563.803,30.938 564.346,32.338 C564.756,33.391 565.244,34.978 565.378,37.899 C565.522,41.056 565.552,42.003 565.552,50 C565.552,57.996 565.522,58.943 565.378,62.101 M570.82,37.631 C570.674,34.438 570.167,32.258 569.425,30.349 C568.659,28.377 567.633,26.702 565.965,25.035 C564.297,23.368 562.623,22.342 560.652,21.575 C558.743,20.834 556.562,20.326 553.369,20.18 C550.169,20.033 549.148,20 541,20 C532.853,20 531.831,20.033 528.631,20.18 C525.438,20.326 523.257,20.834 521.349,21.575 C519.376,22.342 517.703,23.368 516.035,25.035 C514.368,26.702 513.342,28.377 512.574,30.349 C511.834,32.258 511.326,34.438 511.181,37.631 C511.035,40.831 511,41.851 511,50 C511,58.147 511.035,59.17 511.181,62.369 C511.326,65.562 511.834,67.743 512.574,69.651 C513.342,71.625 514.368,73.296 516.035,74.965 C517.703,76.634 519.376,77.658 521.349,78.425 C523.257,79.167 525.438,79.673 528.631,79.82 C531.831,79.965 532.853,80.001 541,80.001 C549.148,80.001 550.169,79.965 553.369,79.82 C556.562,79.673 558.743,79.167 560.652,78.425 C562.623,77.658 564.297,76.634 565.965,74.965 C567.633,73.296 568.659,71.625 569.425,69.651 C570.167,67.743 570.674,65.562 570.82,62.369 C570.966,59.17 571,58.147 571,50 C571,41.851 570.966,40.831 570.82,37.631"></path></g></g></g></svg></div><div style="padding-top: 8px;"> <div style=" color:#3897f0; 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transform: translateX(16px) translateY(-4px) rotate(30deg)"></div></div><div style="margin-left: auto;"> <div style=" width: 0px; border-top: 8px solid #F4F4F4; border-right: 8px solid transparent; transform: translateY(16px);"></div> <div style=" background-color: #F4F4F4; flex-grow: 0; height: 12px; width: 16px; transform: translateY(-4px);"></div> <div style=" width: 0; height: 0; border-top: 8px solid #F4F4F4; border-left: 8px solid transparent; transform: translateY(-4px) translateX(8px);"></div></div></div> <div style="display: flex; flex-direction: column; flex-grow: 1; justify-content: center; margin-bottom: 24px;"> <div style=" background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; margin-bottom: 6px; width: 224px;"></div> <div style=" background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; width: 144px;"></div></div></a><p style=" color:#c9c8cd; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; line-height:17px; margin-bottom:0; margin-top:8px; overflow:hidden; padding:8px 0 7px; text-align:center; text-overflow:ellipsis; white-space:nowrap;"><a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/Cka-qWtPLYq/?utm_source=ig_embed&utm_campaign=loading" style=" color:#c9c8cd; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; font-style:normal; font-weight:normal; line-height:17px; text-decoration:none;" target="_blank">A post shared by Yogie Pratama (@mryogiepratama)</a></p></div></blockquote> <script async src="//www.instagram.com/embed.js"></script>
Dewi Fashion Knights 2022 merupakan panggung DFK pertama bagi Yogie Pratama. Perancang mode satu ini pun mengatakan bahwa adibusana merupakan DNA bagi kliennya. Setiap rancangan yang ia buat akan menyesuaikan dengan karakter si klien sekaligus menyelipkan sentuhan personal karyanya ke dalam rancangannya tersebut. Untuk koleksinya kali ini, Yogie Pratama terinspirasi dari lukisan ‘bengong’ karya Salvita de Corte. Bagi Yogie Pratama, ini adalah kali pertamanya bermain dengan warna, di mana karya-karya sebelumnya ia hanya fokus pada warna monokromatis.
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overflow:hidden; padding:8px 0 7px; text-align:center; text-overflow:ellipsis; white-space:nowrap;"><a href="https://www.instagram.com/reel/Ckfa_j-g13S/?utm_source=ig_embed&utm_campaign=loading" style=" color:#c9c8cd; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; font-style:normal; font-weight:normal; line-height:17px; text-decoration:none;" target="_blank">A post shared by Rinaldy Yunardi (@rinaldyyunardi)</a></p></div></blockquote> <script async src="//www.instagram.com/embed.js"></script>
Pada sekuens terakhir, mahakarya Rinaldy Yunardi yang kerap ditunggu menutup Dewi Fashion Knights 2022 dengan megah. Dibantu sang sahabat, Danny Satriadi, untuk bodysuit di bagian dalam, Rinaldy Yunardi mengolah kembali bentuk-bentuk geometris dari material PVC. Beragam bentuk mulai dari persegi, lingkaran, segitiga, dan lainnya disuguhkan dengan tambahan aksen bulu dan perhiasan emas berukuran besar. Bagi Rinaldy Yunardi, Dewi Fashion Knights ketiganya kali ini, ia menelaah lebih dalam soal rasa hingga menamai koleksi kali ini dengan judul Inner Beauty.
Inilah interpretasi Future Couture dari ketiganya yang melibatkan banyak elemen hingga seutuhnya mengartikan apa sesungguhnya adibusana secara harafiah.
JESSICA ESTHER
Foto: Jakarta Fashion Week
